Technology for repairing painted surfaces. Technology of painting and gluing surfaces. Torn Wallpaper Edge
Defects in stains made with lime and adhesive. Defects in this case are mainly from non-compliance with the technology of work. Most often, they can only be fixed with a complete alteration. Consider the causes of the formation of defects.
The grinding of the paint layer occurs because little glue was added to the prepared paint composition or chalk with large particles was used; not groce ^ ,. The prepared paint composition was prepared.
Peeling of the paint film can be caused by the following: a) the paint composition was too thick or was repeatedly applied to the same place; b) an excessive amount of glue is introduced; c) the painting was done with a thick layer of previously applied paint or with a weak putty.
Corrected by thorough shading of the applied composition with water using a brush. In this case, part of the coating is washed off. If this does not help, then you need to remove the entire layer of paint, grind the surface, prime and paint.
Translucidation of the previous paint layer is possible because a primer of a different color than the paint composition was used, or it was semi-opaque.
To fix the surface should be re-painted. If this does not help, then you will have to re-primer, using a pear, tinted under the paint layer.
Rusty spots are possible from prolonged flow through the plaster of water or from leakage of resinous substances through the plaster.
Corrected by eliminating the causes of the formation of rust spots, removing rusty plaster and replacing it with a new one. Another way is possible: to clean off the old paint, wash the surface with a warm 3% hydrochloric acid solution, dry it, paint it with oil paint (oil or alcohol varnish), prime and paint.
Greasy stains on the plaster come from non-drying stomach or mineral oils. Correction is possible only by cutting oiled spots of plaster, applying a new, thorough drying, oil painting the joints near the new plaster, priming and painting.
The efflorescence comes from the release of soluble salts by the surface, which form a white crystalline coating on the color or plaster. The efflorescences are removed by thoroughly drying and cleaning the surface with steel brushes, grinding the plaster, drying, painting the corrected place with oil paint, putty, primer and painting with glue paint.
“Nataski” can be when painting the surface without primer, or if the painting was carried out on the old paint, primed with a weak soil without shading.
To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the old plaque with water, and even better to clean, grind, primer and paint again.
Striping is possible from adding dry pigments to the paint composition, from poor mixing of the composition, uneven shading and pressure on the brush. Striping can be eliminated by thorough washing with water and staining with a liquid paint composition using a spray gun.
"Veins" arise when surfaces are not well primed (especially with embroidered cracks smeared with gypsum mortar) or because embroidered cracks are not sufficiently wiped. For correction, the paint layer should be washed out or completely removed, the surfaces should be well primed (the cracks should be primed twice) and painted. Correctly worn seams by rubbing them, priming and staining.
Folds are formed from the use of too thick (or too liquid) paint composition. The paint composition should be diluted to normal viscosity and repainted.
The rough texture of the coloration and the accumulation of small tubercles are possible because the grout was made with coarse-grained sand or the primer and the coating composition were applied unrefined. Corrected by washing or grinding the surface, priming and painting with a strained composition.
Spray, drips and passes. Sprays can be due to the nozzle’s hole being enlarged against the norm, leaks can occur due to the liquid paint composition or its uneven application, gaps can be caused by improper brush, roller, etc. Correction by washing the surface with water, priming and painting .
Marble-like spots arise from the use of a highly glued paint composition. Correction is possible by washing the paint layer and coloring (or priming and painting) with a normally sealed composition.
Joints are visible due to inept work with brushes, rollers, spray guns or when painting on a weak primer. You can fix it by flushing the surface with water and performing primer and painting.
The color change of the paint can occur as a result of the use of pigments that are not resistant to alkalis, light, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide. Corrected by washing off the applied paint, priming and staining using stable pigments.
A panel with uneven coloring may be due to improper pressure on the panel brush or excessively thick paint. An elongated panel should be redone.
The painted surface dries unevenly because a primer with a non-uniform strength was used and there were drafts. For correction, drafts should be eliminated and the correct preparation of the primer.
Defects in stains made with oil and enamel compositions.
Traces of the brush are visible when applying thick paint and not enough good shading. The dried paint is cleaned with pumice or sandpaper and again stained with the prepared paint composition.
Joints are noticeable because the painting was carried out by quick-drying paints with interruptions in the same place, i.e., several grips. To correct the work, several people redo the work, working simultaneously without a break. Docking should be near the pilasters, in the corners, etc.
Drips appear from the use of liquid paint, applied in abundance on the surface in abundance without sufficient shading. The dried paint is cleaned with a sandpaper or pumice and stained with a normal composition.
The rough texture of the painting can be from the use of non-filtered paint, painting on poorly executed putty or from its poor cleaning (polishing). The correction consists in a thorough cleaning of the painted surface with a sandpaper or pumice and re-painting.
"Crocodile skin" can be from applying quick-drying paint to an insufficiently dry preparation. Corrected by cleaning with sandpaper or pumice, pro-waxes, putty and staining.
Wrinkles on the color come from applying paint in a thick layer. Correction by stripping, filling and painting.
Rusty and dark spots are possible because tar and mineral oil stains were not removed during preparation. Correct by removing defective places or by thorough cleaning, washing with acids, alkalis, coating with two or three layers of alcohol varnish or nitro varnish and re-painting.
Different color spots with non-drying paint can occur when stained with dry paint. Correction - neutralization of alkali in it with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, washing with clean water, good drying, priming, puttying, painting with high-quality materials.
Peeling of the top layer of paint occurs when stained surfaces previously painted or waxed. Correction: remove loose paint, clean surfaces well with pumice or rinse with soapy and clean water, dry and paint.
Paint bloating is observed when painting poorly dried wooden surfaces.
Often when applying adhesive compositions on the painted surface, moist spots or individual spots with a “frozen” color appear, the color of which is much darker. This happens when stained stucco is painted. Such defects are eliminated by washing the entire surface with warm water, drying out damp places, and then priming and painting again.
When using tinting with an insufficient amount of glue, the paint layer is grinded, which is eliminated by also washing the surface, then primed and stained with a tint with a normal glue content.
When using tinting with excess glue, as well as when painting surfaces puttied or primed with compositions containing an excessive amount of glue, the tinting of the tint occurs: marble-like spots and stripes appear. To eliminate them, the paint is washed off with hot water, the surface is washed several times with warm water, and when it dries, it is covered with a very weak primer (with a small amount of glue) - the putty glue should fix the weak primer. The primer for these purposes is prepared according to the following recipe:
Primer for glued putty (for 10 l of the composition)
- Copper sulfate ................................................ ........... 0.05 kg
- Laundry soap ................................................ .... 0.05 kg
- Animal glue (10%) .......................................... .0.55 L
In addition to the defects listed above, which are obtained by coloring with aqueous compounds, including glues, there can be other defects. The reasons for their appearance and methods of elimination are indicated in table. 15.
The quality of water stains is determined mainly by the appearance of the work performed.
Table 15
Water paint defects
|
Defects |
Reasons for their appearance |
Remedies |
|
Greasy spots |
On plaster stains of non-drying mineral and animal oils |
Cut down the plaster on the spot, again plaster and paint; rinse surfaces with alkaline water and paint |
|
Traces of oily stains on the surface of the paint on reinforced concrete surfaces |
Traces of non-drying oils from mold release |
Clean the surface of the paint layer with putty, rinse with a 5% solution of trisodium phosphate or soda ash, neutralize the surface with a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid and paint again |
|
Yellow rust spots |
Leakage of resinous substances through plaster and paint |
Remove the old scribble: rinse with a warm 3% hydrochloric acid solution and, if the spots are small, primer with a copper-peat primer without chalk, and with considerable size, with shellac alcohol or rosin varnish |
|
Efflorescence (white crystalline coating) |
Isolation of plaster or masonry soluble salts under the influence of water vapor |
Dry and clean the surfaces with a metal brush, primed with white oil paint, putty with adhesive putty, primed, and then painted again with adhesive paint |
|
See through the previous paint layer |
The use of a primer that differs in color from painting |
Rinse and dry thoroughly, prime and coat again. For solid and intense colors, prepare the primer to the color of the color |
|
Peeling paint film |
The surface is painted over a thick layer of previous marks; excessive amount of glue in the color or too thick color |
I shaded it with clean water, and with significant peeling off, scrape off the paint, grind the plaster, prime and paint again |
|
The surface was painted without priming the plaster, frayed, without removing the old plaster, the damaged damage, cracks and dents in the plaster were not sufficiently primed |
Thoroughly wash the painted surface with clean water, remove the coaches with a steel spatula, if necessary, grind, dry, prime and paint again |
|
|
Places repaired with gypsum mortar are not sufficiently primed. Cracks fixed with mortar are poorly wiped and not aligned with the rest of the surface. |
Peel off the paint, rinse with water and grind the plaster, after which it is primed and painted again on the dried surface |
|
|
Shallowing |
There is not enough glue in the color; contains large grains of pigment or chalk |
Fix by spraying the surface of the spray gun with a weak adhesive solution, primer again and paint with strained compounds |
|
Pigments in color are not mixed well; poorly shaded color scheme |
Rinse and paint with liquid tint from a spray gun |
|
|
Splashes, drips |
The liquid color is applied and the paint layer is oversaturated due to the slow motion of the fishing rod or manual spray gun; spray gun nozzle hole increased |
Wash off the paint with water, primer and paint the surface again. Replace nozzle disc |
|
It is painted on a weak primer; inept work with a brush or airbrush |
Rinse surface with water, prime and coat again. |
|
|
Color tone change |
In calcareous colors, non-alkali-resistant pigments are used, and in glue-based soap-primers, lime is not resistant to the action; cause a change in color tone and pigments unstable to light, hydrogen sulfide, sulfur dioxide |
Wash off the paint, primer and paint the surface again using pigments resistant to alkali, light and hydrogen sulfide |
|
The painted surface dries unevenly |
Ambient temperature fluctuates; the primer is not clean and uniform enough |
To establish the causes of fluctuations in ambient temperature; check the preparation of the primer |
test questions
- List the technological operations for preparing for painting:
- 1.1. improved adhesive;
- 1.2. lime for plaster and concrete;
- 1.3. improved casein;
- 1.4. emulsion.
- What are the requirements of SNiP to the quality of painting with aqueous compounds?
It is perfectly acceptable to wallpaper a wide variety of surfaces. The base must be completely dry, smooth and even, free from dust and other contaminants. On a damp base, wallpaper adhesives will swell or even rot, as a result of which spots will appear on the wallpaper.
In addition, wet and rotting wallpaper glue smells unpleasant enough. Wallpaper should not be glued to glossy surfaces, as they will not stick to them anyway.
If the wallpaper is glued to rough surfaces, then there is a rather high probability that they will soon peel off. To prevent this, the plastered walls are covered with a layer of putty. For this purpose, semi-oil putties are most suitable, the basis of which is chalk sifted through a fine sieve. Before applying the putty, the surface is primed, for which purpose vitriol soil is best suited. Putty is applied in one or two layers. In this case, the upper layer is carefully leveled and cleaned with a fine-grained sandpaper.
Surfaces coated with plaster must be inspected very carefully. If there is a wall of lime or glue on them, it should be removed completely, otherwise the wallpaper will not hold well. After stripping off, the surface must be wiped well with a wet, hard cloth.
If there are cracks on the plaster, they are expanded, all loose stucco is removed. The resulting surface is thoroughly moistened with water and coated with a cement-sand mortar. The seams are rubbed so that they are flush with the rest of the surface. Upon completion of the repair, the surface is thoroughly dried, treated with a wooden block, which will help to make it more even, in the last instance cleaned of dust. You need to remember that all seams and roughness will be very clearly visible on the surface of the wallpaper, especially on paper.
When preparing concrete or gypsum slag surfaces, they are first inspected, cut off all existing irregularities, covered with a solution and rubbed. For these purposes, it is undesirable to use gypsum, since when it hardens, it tends to expand, so an elevation can form on the surface, which will be very noticeable on the wallpaper.
Wood surfaces, as well as surfaces made from fiberboard or particle board, plywood or dry plaster, must be cleaned of dust. In places where the plates are joined together, they can protrude, so they are treated with a sandpaper, covered with a layer of drying oil, putty. It is acceptable to just glue the cracks with paper strips or gauze. Hats of nails are sunk into an array of slabs or plywood to a depth of 1 mm, they are covered with a layer of drying oil and putty.
It must be remembered that the sheets of dry plaster have two sides - smooth and rough. They should be attached to the wall with the rough side. If they have already been nailed on the contrary, then the rough surface is covered with a primer, on which a layer of putty is then applied.
All wooden surfaces are upholstered with cardboard before wallpapering.
Surfaces that are already pasted over with old wallpaper are prepared in a variety of ways. To remove the wallpaper, they are moistened with warm water and left for 10 minutes, after which the wallpaper should easily move away from the base. In some cases, the wallpaper can not be removed. This can be done if the glued wallpaper has a lower density compared to existing ones.
Before gluing the walls with wallpaper, they must be glued, that is, cover the base with the same composition with which the wallpaper will be glued. This is done with a fly brush. An adhesive film is formed on the surface, due to which the wallpaper will hold stronger. In addition, the film will also help protect the wallpaper from exposure to various alkalis and other substances contained in the base.
If adhesives are produced in hot water, then gluing will also have to be done with a hot composition, distributing it very well on the surface and leaving no gaps or clots. The upper parts of the walls are most carefully treated.
After gluing, they start gluing the walls with paper, which is very important for dense, embossed or washable wallpapers, since this particular technology is indicated in SNIP. Smooth gypsum-concrete or concrete surfaces, as well as all kinds of sheet materials, can not be glued with paper.
Each of the sheets of paper is well smoothed so that all the air comes out from under it. Thin paper adheres better to the surface, and is also a primer for wallpaper. In addition, it smooths out minor irregularities.
It is easiest and most convenient to use newspapers as soil for wallpaper. They are stacked on the floor or on the table. Begin gluing from the top of the wall. Thin paper is glued with a slight overlap, thick paper is glued end-to-end, trying to avoid gaps, bloating or wrinkles, as this will negatively affect the final result.
Lubricate thick paper with glue 2-3 times so that it becomes saturated with it, it becomes softer, then the gluing process will go much easier.
Close to the platbands or baseboards, the paper is glued back to back, but it should not be found on the baseboards themselves, since paper will most likely quickly peel off from them. Often there are cracks or even cracks between the wall and baseboards. They need to be cleaned and sealed with either gypsum or cement-sand mortar.
Wallpaper before gluing must be prepared. To do this, cut the edges of the rolls and cut them into separate panels. The edge must be cut very carefully along the existing line. If the wallpaper density does not exceed 100 g / m2, then they can be glued with an overlap. In this case, the edges should be directed towards the movement of light. For wallpaper that needs to be glued back to back, both edges are trimmed.
Wallpaper needs to be rolled out a bit and inspected for various kinds of defects, and then sorted by color uniformity. Homogeneous wallpapers are pasted in those places where the walls will be open, and heterogeneous - behind the furniture, in dark corners, in a word, where they will not be too striking.
In the event that you are working with wallpaper with a pattern, you need to cut the cloth so that the pattern at the joints matches (Fig. 25).
If the picture is large enough, you should make a small margin. In addition, all panels should have an allowance of 5-10 cm, since in many rooms the height of the ceilings is uneven, and this drawback is often found not only in houses of the old construction, but also in new ones. After gluing, the excess is cut off at the baseboard with scissors or, more preferably, with a knife in a ruler.
The easiest way to combine the pattern is as follows: roll several rolls on the floor at once, lay them so that the pattern matches, and then cut along the ruler with a knife. Sliced \u200b\u200bpanels are stacked or twisted into a roll. After cutting, as a rule, there will be a significant number of pieces that can be useful in the process of pasting walls above and below windows, above doors, as well as in places where exact pattern matching is required. For example, in the figure below (Fig. 26), you can see a scan of the walls of the room that need to be pasted with wallpaper of various lengths.
a slight discrepancy in the upper lines of the panels is allowed, since it will hide these irregularities underneath.
Wallpaper begins to glue from the window and leads into the interior of the room. Each first panel on the next wall must be glued strictly vertically. To comply with this condition, it is necessary to measure the distance equal to the width of the panel from the corner of the room and determine its position using a plumb line (Fig. 27).
The last panel on the wall should not be glued strictly to the corner, but overlap it by 2-3 cm. To do this, even before applying the glue, you need to determine which segment of the wallpaper will be superfluous and remove it. On the next wall, the panel must be glued right up to the corner to overlap the overlapped strip. It is also perfectly acceptable to glue the corners with a whole panel, but only if they have a perfectly smooth surface, since otherwise wrinkles will appear on the wallpaper.
Apply glue to the wallpaper is best on the floor or a long table. At the same time, the floor must be covered with newspapers, having previously cleaned it of debris and dust. The sheets should lie on top of each other in a stack face down so that each subsequent protrudes from under the other by 1 cm or more. When laying the panels can be involuntarily folded into a roll. To prevent this from happening, you can put a small load on them.
Wallpaper glue should be applied with a fly brush along the length of the panel, to prevent clots or gaps, while its layer should not be very thick (Fig. 28).
For more reliable adhesion of the edges to the base, they must be lubricated as thoroughly as possible. That is why professionals recommend initially to smear the edges as best as possible, and only then proceed to applying kpei to the rest of the panel. When it is completely covered with glue, you need to once again apply it to the edges. Nevertheless, the glue should not be too much, otherwise it will protrude from under the wallpaper and contaminate their front side. In this case, the excess must be removed with a clean, dry cloth.
The first panel of wallpaper is glued exactly along the marked vertical line in the direction from the window into the depth of the room so that their joints are as less noticeable as possible.
It is quite acceptable to work alone, but it’s much easier and more convenient to work with a partner, because in the process of gluing you will have to climb the stairs and go down from it.
After the panel is glued to the wall, it needs to be smoothed out from above and then from below, starting from the middle and gradually moving towards the edges, carefully making sure that there are no wrinkles, bubbles and poorly glued edges. A soft, dry cloth is suitable for smoothing (fig. 29).
 |
Fig. 29. Smoothing the glued panel
If you work in pairs, then one person should be upstairs, standing on a table, stepladder or chair. The other, at this moment, spreads the panels, fold them in a certain way and delivers them upstairs.
The man standing upstairs takes the wallpaper at one end and spreads the folded canvas. The worker at the bottom takes the lower end and pulls the wallpaper slightly, applies the edge exactly to the marked vertical, glues the entire cloth, and then smoothes it with a soft cloth, as described above (Fig. 30). Smoothing should be done as carefully as possible so as not to grease the paint located on the front side of the wallpaper.
It also happens that under the wallpaper there are air bubbles that cannot be eliminated by smoothing. In this case, the bubble must be pierced with a needle, through the hole formed, squeeze out all the accumulated air and smooth it.
If the pattern on the wallpaper is smeared even with the lightest smoothing, this operation should be performed through a sheet of clean paper, and newspapers cannot be used for this purpose, since they will leave paint on the surface of the wallpaper.
When the first panel is glued, you can proceed to gluing the second, while the uncut edge of the first panel should not protrude, so that each subsequent sheet will overlap the edge of the previous one.
Quite often, such a situation arises that the next panel does not stick well or even lags behind the edge glued earlier. This can happen because the wallpaper does not stick to the paint on which the edge is coated. In this case, carefully lubricate it again with a small brush, and when the glue is a little grasp, stick the next panel.
You should not put too much glue on the wallpaper, since it will not be better to stay away from it, because as a result of smoothing, excess glue will still be removed, and only the front side of the wallpaper will become dirty, so you will have to constantly wipe it with a clean rag, which takes a lot of time , and the picture may remain spoiled.
If there are sockets or switches on the walls that cannot be removed, they are handled as follows: first they put a dry cloth on the wall, determine where the socket or switch will be located, cut a hole exactly in size and only then apply glue and paste the wallpaper.
If you bought wallpaper with a fairly high density indicator (120 g / m2 or more), then they must be glued back to back. The edges of the panels need to be lifted, wrapped, again glue on them, glued and carefully smoothed.
Using this technology, wallpaper should be glued extremely carefully so that the glue does not stain their front side. To do this, proceed as follows: glue a strip of paper 2–3 cm wide along the entire length of the cloth to be glued. Then it will lay its edge on this paper, which is removed, and the extreme part of the wallpaper is glued thoroughly.
TOOLS FOR WALLPAPER WORKS
1. Scissors.
2. Roller for leveling glued wallpaper.
3. Brush for smoothing wallpaper.
4. Brush for spreading glue.
6. The line.
7. Roller knife.
When accepting the work, the compliance of the wallpaper with the samples approved by the architectural supervision is checked. Wallpaper work is accepted only after drying glued with both surfaces or after glued linkrust.
The quality of wallpaper should meet the following requirements:
There should be no bubbles or spots on glued surfaces;
All panels should have the same color and tint;
The fit of the pattern at the joints should be accurate - with tolerances of not more than +0.5 mm;
Gaps, gluing and peeling are not allowed;
The joints of the wallpaper when gluing them end to end should not be noticeable at a distance of 3 m.
When gluing wallpaper lap the edge of the panel should be facing the light - towards the windows.
DIARY-REPORT No. 27
date<<13>\u003e 06 2015
Theme:Surface preparation for painting.
Purpose:To own techniques for preparing surfaces for painting.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Tools - brush, roller.
Task 1. Preparation of surfaces for painting.
Before painting, surfaces must be prepared in a certain way. Before the start of painting work in the premises, all construction work is completed (except for linoleum flooring and parquet laying), electrical work, installation and testing of central heating, water supply, sewage. The surface to be painted must have a certain moisture content (for plastered and concrete surfaces no more than 8%, and for wood-12%). In winter conditions, internal painting is carried out in insulated and heated rooms at the temperature of the most cooled surfaces above 8 ° C. Wooden structures must be well fixed, not have cracks, burrs and other flaws. Window and door blocks come to objects painted once (i.e., all processes preceding the first painting are performed by the manufacturer).
DIARY-REPORT No. 28
date<<13>\u003e 06 2015
Theme:Painting facades with acrylic paints.
Purpose:Own the techniques of painting facades with acrylic paints.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Tools - brush, roller.
Task 1. Painting facades with acrylic paints.
| FACADE PAINT TECHNOLOGY WITH ACRYLIC PAINTS |
| The article discusses one of the ways to protect the facade from premature aging - painting with paints and varnishes. In particular, the most common type of facade coatings is presented - based on aqueous acrylic dispersion. Acrylic coatings are characterized by environmental safety and high performance. The service life and operational properties of the paintwork depend not only on the quality of the paint, but also on the preparation of the facade surface, compliance with application technologies. Therefore, we consider in detail all the stages of painting. Preparation of the facade surface The surface of the facade should be clean, not crumbling and not "grinding", dry, without signs of fungal lesions. Old crumbling and cracked coatings must be removed. To strengthen the “grinding” surfaces, you can use an acrylic primer of deep penetration, for example, primer VD-AK-051 of the Galamix trademark diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2. Puttying Before painting, it is necessary to level the surface of the facade - putty chips, cracks, cavities, etc. In order to prevent the putty from drying out too quickly by absorbing water into the surface of the wall, it is recommended that the wall be primed first. The result of the quick drying of the putty can be the appearance of "scoring" during puttying. For the same reason, when applying putty in 2 layers, it is desirable to carry out an intermediate priming of the first layer. It must be borne in mind that before painting with water-dispersed acrylic paints, water-based putties must be used. In case the finish painting is carried out with structural paints creating a relief pattern, the presence on the surface of small grooves, cracks and chips. This is due to the fact that acrylic structural paints are usually applied in a thick layer and can hide small surface defects. Therefore, the putty stage can be excluded from the process using structural paints. Priming In order to increase the service life of the paintwork, it is necessary to first prime the surface of the facade. Priming will protect the wall from environmental influences before painting it with paint and varnish material, reduce paint consumption, and improve its adhesion to the surface. Domestic manufacturers offer two main types of acrylic primers. Deep penetration primers are recommended for highly porous substrates, for strengthening fragile surfaces, for use in rooms with high humidity. Another type of primer is filled; they fill small defects and surface irregularities. Both types of acrylic primers form a thin film on the surface of the facade, even out its porosity and moisture absorption, stabilize the surface layer, and avoid the different shades of the coating after staining. Acrylic primers are suitable for application on new and previously painted concrete, drywall, brick, plaster and wooden surfaces before painting them with water-dispersed acrylic facade paints. Primers can be applied by manual methods - roller, brush, as well as by pneumatic spraying. The consumption of primers depends on the absorbency of the facade surface. For example, for acrylic primers of the Russian Galamix trademark, the average consumption is 80-120 g / m2. Painting the facade with acrylic paints Acrylic water-dispersion paints have high weather resistance, they pass gases and water vapor well, and are highly resistant to washing and wet abrasion. Styrene-acrylic paints have a higher alkali resistance than acrylic, which is important when painting highly alkaline concrete surfaces. However, the durability of the paint, implying the absence of “chalking”, yellowing, cracking, peeling, and dirt absorption, is determined not only by the nature of the binder. It is important that the ratio of fillers and pigments with respect to the binder in the paint composition is correctly selected. The optimal ratio provides good adhesion, low water absorption in combination with the ability to diffuse air and water vapor from the interior. The type and amount of pigment included in the paint is also important. The amount of pigment determines the opacity of the paint, and accordingly its consumption, and light resistance depends on the quality and chemical nature of the pigment, i.e. discoloration due to exposure to sunlight. The paint should contain additives that affect its storage stability, ease of application. |
DIARY-REPORT No. 29
date<<13>\u003e 06 2015
Theme:Painting of facades with silicate compositions.
Purpose:Own the techniques of painting facades with silicate compositions.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Brush tools, roller.
Task 1. Painting facades with silicate compositions.
The surface for silicate paint should be carefully prepared. Loose surfaces (plaster, brick) are previously primed with water or, if this does not help, with a solution of liquid glass (specific gravity 1.13-1.15) with chalk; painting in case of priming with water is carried out on a dry surface.
The necessary strength of the primer is determined by the method of test colorings on the surfaces of buildings. If, after 2-4 hours after applying the primer, the wall does not have spotting and does not grind, its coating has a summer luster (resembling the luster of an egg shell) - the primer is chosen successfully and you can start painting. When grinding, the strength of the liquid glass solution is strengthened, with spotting, it is weakened.
Painting is carried out in two layers. The second layer is applied no earlier than 20 hours. after the first painting. Painting work is usually done with a spray gun, but can also be done with a roller, brush or spray gun at an air temperature below 24 °. In dry sunny weather, the color of the facades facing south is only up to 10 hours. in the morning. At low temperatures it is impossible to work with silicate paints.
DIARY-REPORT No. 30
date<<13>\u003e 06 2015
Theme:Painting facades with cement compounds.
Purpose:To own techniques for painting facades with cement compounds.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
The surface for painting with cementitious compositions should be prepared as for normal painting of facades, and after washing it should be thoroughly moistened with water to create normal conditions for cement hardening and to prevent the suction of water from the painting composition.
On the prepared surface, painting is done two times with spray guns, rollers or brushes, and the second painting is performed in a day, carefully protecting the freshly painted surface from direct sunlight, otherwise, quick drying will violate the normal conditions of cement hardening.
0.5-0.9 kg of dry paint is consumed per 1 m2 of surface.
To avoid damage to the tool, it must be washed immediately after the end of work, trying to use any breaks in work for this.
DIARY-REPORT No. 31
date<<02>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Painting of facades with lime compounds.
Purpose:Own the techniques of painting facades with lime compounds.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology of painting facades.
Task 2. Defects reason for their appearance and methods for their elimination.
DIARY-REPORT No. 32
date<<03>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of surfaces painted with aqueous compounds.
Purpose:Master the methods of repairing surfaces painted with waterborne compounds .
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 2. Requirements for preparatory work
DIARY-REPORT No. 33
date<<04>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Preparation of plaster surfaces for staining the field with vinyl chloride compounds.
Purpose:To have skills in preparing plaster surfaces for painting a field with vinyl chloride compounds .
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology training.
Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.
DIARY-REPORT No. 34
date<<05>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of concrete surfaces painted with oil paints. .
Purpose:To own techniques for repairing concrete surfaces painted with oil paints.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology application.
Task 2. Defects and their elimination.
DIARY-REPORT No. 35
date<<07>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Pasting borders and friezes.
Purpose:To own techniques for gluing borders and friezes.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. What are borders and friezes.
Task 2. Where they apply.
DIARY-REPORT No. 36
date<<08>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Features of the production of painting in winter conditions.
Purpose:Know the requirement when painting in winter conditions.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1.requirement in the production of painting works in winter conditions..
DIARY-REPORT No. 37
date<<08>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Methods of implementation and quality control in alternative jobs.
Purpose:Own methods of execution and quality control in alternative jobs.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Requirements for preparation and methods of implementation.
Task 2. Quality control.
DIARY-REPORT No. 38
date<<09>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Surface painting with casein compounds.
Purpose:Master the techniques of painting surfaces with casein compounds . .
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. The technology of painting work.
Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.
DIARY REPORT No. 39
date<<10>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Painting parquet coatings with special compounds.
Purpose:Own the techniques of coloring parquet coatings with special compounds.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting parquet coatings with special compounds.
DIARY REPORT No. 40
date<<11>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Processing and painting of metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.
Purpose:Own the techniques of processing and painting metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Processing and painting of metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.
DIARY-REPORT No. 41
date<<12>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Coloring of various surfaces under the invoice step gray.
Purpose:Own the techniques of painting various surfaces for invoice step gray.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting of various surfaces for invoice step gray.
DIARY-REPORT No. 42
date<<14>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Painting of window and door surfaces with oil compounds.
Purpose:Own the techniques of painting window and door surfaces with oil compositions.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting the window and door surfaces with oil compositions.
DIARY-REPORT No. 43
date<<15>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Pasting concrete surfaces with cramped wallpaper.
Purpose:Own techniques for pasting concrete surfaces with cramped wallpaper.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting facades with cement compounds.
DIARY-REPORT No. 44
date<<16>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Pasting the plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.
Purpose:To own techniques for gluing a plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting the plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.
DIARY-REPORT No. 45
date<<17>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Pasting drywall washable wallpaper.
Purpose:Own methods of pasting drywall washable wallpaper.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting of drywall surface with washable wallpaper.
DIARY-REPORT No. 46
date<<18>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.
Purpose:To own methods of pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.
DIARY-REPORT No. 47
date<<21>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Pasting the field with vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.
Purpose:Own the methods of pasting the field with vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting a field of vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.
DIARY-REPORT No. 48
date<<22>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of painted surfaces with aqueous compounds.
Purpose:own methods of repairing painted surfaces with water compositions.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology for repairing painted surfaces with water compositions.
Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.
DIARY-REPORT No. 49
date<<23>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of painted surfaces with a water-based composition.
Purpose:own methods of repairing painted surfaces with a water-based composition.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. The technology of repairing painted surfaces with a water-based composition.
DIARY-REPORT No. 50
date<<24>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of painted surfaces with non-aqueous compositions.
Purpose:own methods of repairing painted surfaces with non-aqueous compositions.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology repair non-aqueous compositions of plaster and concrete surfaces.
Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.
Task 3. Requirements of SNiP with improved coloring by molar compounds.
DIARY-REPORT No. 51
date<<25>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of wooden and metal surfaces.
Purpose:Own the techniques of repairing wooden and metal surfaces.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Repair technology.
Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.
Task 3. Demand SNiP with improved color.
DIARY-REPORT No. 52
date<<26>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair of glued surfaces.
Purpose:To own techniques for repairing glued surfaces.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology for the repair of glued surfaces.
Task 2. Defects of the cause.
Task 3. Demands SNiP to the quality of repair work.
DIARY-REPORT No. 53
date<<28>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:Repair glued surfaces field vinyl chloride films.
Purpose:Own the techniques of repairing glued surfaces field vinyl chloride films.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Repair glued surfaces field vinyl chloride films.
DIARY-REPORT No. 54
date<<29>\u003e 03 2016
Theme:The workplace of the painter and individual means are sewn up.
Purpose:Know the workplace of the painter and individual means are sewn up.
Place of execution:Training workshops
Working hours -6 o'clock
Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting facades with cement compounds.
The most common surface defects of building structures and products (significant bumps, sinks, chips and deep crests) are the result of violations of their manufacturing technology, mechanical damage during transportation and installation, poor quality of prefabricated elements, claddings and plasters
Defective places are repaired with polymer-cement and gypsum-polymer cement mortars before painting. The solutions are prepared from dry commercial cement-sand or gypsum-cement-pozzolanic mixture and additives (polyvinyl acetate dispersion or synthetic latex) in the ratio to cement or gypsum binder 0.2: 1, as a result of which polymer-cement or gypsum-polymer cement solutions are obtained. The polymer additive increases the adhesion, toughness and portability of the solution. This allows you to apply it on various substrates (for example, concrete, gypsum concrete). After 28 days, the adhesion of the polymer-cement mortar to concrete reaches 0.5-0.6 MPa, which is 4 times the adhesion strength of a conventional cement-sand plaster.
A solution of dry mixes is prepared at construction sites. The dry mixture is thoroughly mixed with water to a working consistency in mortar mixers or plaster drawers. The dispersion or latex is introduced into the water in advance and the solution is closed on it. A small amount of a lime-adhesive gypsum setting retarder is added to the gypsum-polymer solution.
Solutions are fed to the floors with mortar pumps.
Before repair, the defective places are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, then primed with an aqueous solution of polyvinyl acetate dispersion of 7% concentration with a brush. Given that the volume of repair work, as a rule, is small, plaster mortars are applied manually with plastering tools.
The plaster blade (12a) and the scoop blade (12.6) consist of a steel sheet up to 1.5 mm thick, a handle with a knee 50 mm high and a standard size wooden handle mounted on the handle. The length of the blade can be 180 and 200 mm. The cuttings are fixed to the web by welding and less often riveted. The solution that accumulates at the attachment point of the handle is systematically cleaned. Blades with a seamless blade and a handle are more convenient - it is easier to remove the solution from them. The smaller the mass of the scapula, the easier it is to work.
Various materials are poured and dosed with plastering blades (approximately), mix dry mixtures and solutions, spray, smear, level and smooth solutions, cut off excess solution, clean tools, tools and accessories from the solution.
Graders (rice, 12, c) intended for leveling and spreading the mortar are made of wood; the canvas should be evenly planed. Depending on the purpose, the canvas can be from 150 to 2000 long, from 20 to 150 wide, from 5 to 30 mm thick.
Shaped half-graders (12, g) used for rubbing husks, dots and chamfers are more productive and convenient to use than simple ones. They are metal 804 mm long and wooden up to 2000 mm long. At wooden trowels, the canvas is knocked down from two planed boards at a right angle, the handles are fixed with nails. The disadvantage of wooden poluters is that they warp.
Graters (12, d) are used for smooth finish of the solution, i.e. grout. They are made of pine or spruce wood, duralumin, galvanized steel. The handle is made so high that it is convenient to hold the grater. The average dimensions of the cloth grater 110X190 mm. The handle is attached to the canvas with nails or wooden pins. As the canvas wears away, the ends of the nails or dowels are recessed into the fabric.
When wet and dry, the grater cloth warps, which reduces labor productivity. In order for the grater to be rubbed cleaner, a dense felt or felt is nailed to the canvas, but such a grater does not cut small tubercles, therefore, they first wipe the surface with a grater with a wooden cloth, and then with a cloth covered with felt. Sometimes, to smooth the solution, hinged graters on a long handle are used, the block of which is wrapped with a sanding cloth. Smooth surfaces with reciprocating motions of a cage or grater 60-70 cm wide.
Smoothers (12, f) are more productive than graters, but the quality of smoothing by them is lower. Smoothers are steel or wooden. Wooden ironers are half-graders, the canvas of which is covered with (upholstered) rubber.
To smooth the surface of the solution using a flaky stone or the end of a tree. A piece of flaky stone (sandstone of hard rock), silicate brick or the end of a coniferous tree is inserted into a holder on a long handle, which allows smoothing surfaces in rooms 2.5-3 m high without step ladders or tables.
As a result of repair and alignment of surfaces with a polymer-cement or gypsum-polymer cement solution, a finely roughened surface is obtained that is not suitable directly for painting, it is additionally smoothed with putties.