Planing wood. Planing. In order to give the wood blank the desired shape and size, as well as to obtain a flat surface, the planing operation is performed. She. Planing wood blanks
Municipal treasury
educational institution
"Lyceum number 1"
Technology Lesson Summary
5th grade
Theme of the lesson:Wood planing
prepared
Emelyanov Oleg Borisovich,
technology teacher
shadrinsk, 2013
Plan abstract.
Theme of the lesson:Wood planing
The purpose of the lesson:
1. Educational: To give students an initial understanding of the technology for planing wood blanks.
2. Educating: To bring up initiative and independence in labor activity.
3. Developing: To develop coordination of movements when performing carpentry operations.
Occupation Equipment:
1. Material and technical equipment:
Instruments: joiner's hacksaw (16 pcs.), joiner's square (16 pcs.), ruler (16 pcs.), plane (16 pcs.), awl (16 pcs.), drill 10 mm (2 pcs.), pencil (16 pcs.), a rasp (16 pcs.), a jigsaw (16 pcs.), a grinding pad (16 pcs.).
Equipment: drilling machine (2 pcs.) carpentry workbench (16 pcs.), lining board (2 pcs.), cutting table (16 pcs.).
Materials: Bar (birch) 15x40x320mm (16 pcs.).
2. Didactic equipment: Presentation: “Slicing of wood”, technological map of manufacturing a handle, criteria for evaluating practical work.
3. Methodological equipment: The outline of the lesson, Kazakevich, V.M. Technology. Technical work. Grade 5 [Text]: method. allowance / V.M. Kazakevich. - M.: Bustard, 2005 .-- 127 p.
Location: training workshop
Occupation Type: combined
Lesson structure:
1. Organizational moment - 1 - 2 min.
2. Updating knowledge - 3 min.
3. Presentation of new material - 15 - 20 minutes.
3.1. Planing of wood blanks.
3.2. Types of planing tools.
3.3. The device is a planer, jointer and sherbel.
3.4. Planing techniques with a planer.
3.5. Fastening.
4. Practical work - 45 - 50 minutes.
4.1. Induction training. Rules for safe work when planing wood.
5. Summarizing the lesson - 5 minutes.
6. Cleaning jobs - 3 - 5 minutes.
TOTAL: 80 min.
Board decoration
Lesson topic
Wood planing
Course progress:
Organizing time.
The teacher marks the audience on the magazine. The teacher tells the topic and purpose of the lesson.
2. Updating knowledge.
1. What tools are used forsawing wood. (Joiner's hacksaw, circular saw, bow saw)
2. What parts does the hacksaw consist of? (Pen, canvas)
3. How to distinguish hacksaws with different tooth shapes? (For transverse, longitudinal and mixed sawing.)
4. What hacksaw is used for longitudinal sawing? (For longitudinal sawing, you need to choose a saw with an inclined tooth profile)
5. For what purposes do you use a miter box? ( The miter box is used for precise sawing of workpieces across the fibers at various angles of 30 °, 45 °, 90 °)
After listening to the students' answers, the teacher clarifies, supplements and evaluates them.
3. Presentation of new material.
The teacher offers more prepared students a presentation on the types of joiner's planing tools.
Guidelines:Then the students are informed that they have to get acquainted with the new operation of wood processing - planing. It is used to give products the necessary shape, size and required surface quality. Students are offered examples of the use of planing in the manufacture of various products. It is advisable to state the technical information about this operation gradually. So, in this lesson, you can familiarize students with the planer device and with the working methods of this tool, for the subsequent ones - with other planing tools, their adjustment, with the mechanization of planing works at woodworking enterprises, etc.
After sawing, sawn timber or wood blanks have roughnesses, risks, warps and other defects that are eliminated by planing. In the process of planing, the workpiece is given the desired shape and size.
Planing- the process of processing the workpiece to the desired size and creating smooth and smooth surfaces on it using plows.
In Russia, all types of tools used for planing wood were called plows or shavings. Currently, in furniture and woodworking industries there is manual and profile planing, as well as planing with the help of electric tools and planing machines. This work is donecarpenters, joiners, machine tool planers.
Manual planing is performed with wooden and metal planers. Wooden planers are divided into two groups: single knife planer used for preliminary planing, double knife planer - for fine.
A metal planer with a single knife consists of a front handle, a block, a clamp, a thrust rod, a clamping screw, a knife, a rear handle. The teacher relies on the presentation when explaining
A wooden planer with a single knife consists of a block, a handle, a horn, a tap hole, a wooden wedge, and a knife.
A wooden planer with a double knife consists of a block, a notch, a knife, a chipbreaker, a screw (fastening a chipbreaker), a wedge, a horn, an emphasis, and a sole. The teacher relies on the presentation when explaining
Among wooden planers distinguish sherhebel and planer - jointer. Sherhebel– used for roughing blanks. Jointer – hand tools for flat surfaces of long workpieces. Planer (planer), usually after processing the surface with a planer to make it smoother. This is achieved due to the large length of the block planer - more than 600 mm.
The cutting part of all carpentry tools is wedge-shaped. For example, a planer knife in its cutting part is sharpened in the form of a sharp wedge. Two surfaces of the wedge at their intersection form a sharp cutting edge. This cutting edge cuts the wood fibers, and the front surface of the knife bends the cut layer in the form of chips.
Guidelines:Before explaining and demonstrating the methods of planing, it is recommended that the teacher talk about planing wood along and across the fibers, about trimming, explain that when planing along the fibers a little effort is expended, and a less rough surface is obtained.
Before planing, check that the tool is set up correctly. For a correctly installed knife, the blade is located above the sole of the block without distortions and protrudes by 1 ... 3 mm at the shear and 0.1 ... 0.3 mm at the planer.
The workpiece to be mounted on a workbench, clamping or jamming between the emphasis and the wedge so that the cut side is facing up. With their right hand they take the plane for the handle from the back of the block, and with the left - for the block or handle from the front.
A planer is mounted on the workpiece with the blade down and pushed forward. At the beginning of planing, they press on the front of the planer, and at the end - on the back, so that the surface to be machined is flat. With the return movement of the plane, it is raised above the surface. So, making a movement forward and backward, they gradually cut the surface to be treated until it becomes even and smooth.
If the fibers on the work surface are pulled up, then the part should be planed on the other hand.
The plane must be held tight so that the hands do not slip off and hit the sharp side ribs of the workpieces. In this case, bruises and cuts in the hands are possible. The workpiece stops should not protrude above the work surface. Verification and quality control of planing. The planed surfaces of the workpiece — the faces, edges and ends — are checked with the help of measuring instruments.
The correctness of the planed face is checked "by clearance" with a ruler. Properly planed face with face or face. On it, a carpenter or a carpenter draws a wavy line with a pencil. This means that the front layer during further work will be basic.
Guidelines:Given that it is difficult for students to learn planing right away, it is recommended that they offer them training exercises. During these exercises, the teacher bypasses workplaces, monitors the correct implementation of work methods, observance of labor safety rules, helps those who have difficulties. After fifth graders learn the skills of planing, you can allow them to begin practical work on the manufacture of the product.
Fastening:
1. What tools are used to plan the surfaces of the workpieces? (Planer with a single knife, planer with a double knife, sherbel, jointer, moulder, fillet, etc.)
2. For what purposes do you use sherbel? (For rough planing)
3. For what purposes do you use a double knife planer? (For fine planing)
4. Why is the jointer used? (For flat surfaces of long workpieces )
5. List the main parts of a planer? (Front handle, block, clamp, thrust rod, clamp screw, knife, rear handle )
6. What tools are used for profile planing? (Kalevki, faltsgobel, zenzubel, fillet, humpback, etc. )
4. Practical work of students.
4.1. Induction training.
Guidelines: Before doing practical work, the teacher explains its content on the sample, shows which surfaces should be cleaned with a rasp and sandpaper, and gives recommendations for cleaning the edges of the parts. Before starting to do practical work, the teacher explains to the students the criteria for evaluating practical work.
Rules for safe work when planing wood:
Check the reliability of the workpiece mounting on the workbench.
Perform work with a working, well-sharpened and well-established tool.
Clean the summer from chips with a wooden stick (sliver).
Do not check the quality of hand planing. You can take your hand in.
Keep the strings on the edge (side), the blade away from you.
Do not leave plows on the edge of the workbench.
Use tools strictly for their intended purpose.
Only do the work that the teacher has instructed.
At the end of the work, remove the workplace.
4.2. Handle manufacture and ongoing training.
Production of the product in accordance with the flow chart.
For less trained students, the teacher suggests making bars for the underlay.
Guidelines:During work, the teacher bypasses workplaces, monitors the correct implementation of working techniques, compliance with labor safety rules, etc. Provides assistance to individual students, if necessary. In the case of errors or difficulties characteristic of many children, he stops work and conducts ongoing training.
5. Summarizing the lesson.
The teacher analyzes characteristic errors and their causes. It reports the performance of each student. The teacher sets grades based oncriteria for evaluating practical work .
After sawing is finished, the board or bar should be planed to smoothness, remove roughness from the sawn surface. This operation is called jointing and is performed on a planer or electric planer, and manually - by one of the representatives of the planer family. The simplest planer has a wooden case with a handle, a knife and a wooden wedge for fixing the knife.
A modern metal planer has devices that make it easy to regulate the release of the knife blade, which determines the thickness of the removed chips, and the angle of inclination of the knife to the planing plane, and the width of the slit for chips, and the parallelism of the knife blade to the plane of the board.
Planing begins with a sherbel, which allows you to remove a thick layer of wood, and can be planed up and down thanks to the oval shape of the blade.
A planer with a single knife evens out an uneven surface after sawing or sherbel, and with a double knife (double planer) it is good for fine planing, planing of butt ends, scoring and frizzy areas. In such a plane, the second knife, the chipbreaker, prevents teasing, flakes and spalls.
To grind the burrs, a grinding point is used, it has a short body and an increased cutting angle, which provides thin chips.
The Tsinubel is intended for the formation of grooves and the fleecy surface of the tree (for gluing), therefore, its cutting angle is very large (80 °), and the blade has the shape of a comb.
If you insert a regular knife into the casing of a zinubel, then it can be used as a grinder.
For planing the ends, an end plane is used, in which the knife blade is turned at an angle to the direction of planing.
Zenzbel is designed to sample a quarter. The knife at this plane has two cutting faces - the lower and side - and a side hole for the release of chips. As with the face planer, the lower blade of the knife is turned to the cutting plane at an angle, which improves the quality of cutting.
Mechanical planing of wood is carried out using manual electric planers and special machines. Manual electric planers are used for planing logs, beams, boards, floors and various blanks of carpentry, as well as in cases where the workpiece is not possible to bring to a stationary planing tool.
For any planing, especially when roughing, when a thick layer of wood is removed, it is necessary to determine the direction of the fibers, so as not to plan the look. This is determined by inspection (the fibers should come to the surface in the direction of movement of the tool, i.e., from the joiner) or by trial planing if the fibers are invisible.
When mowing with a scherbel, you can get chips so deep that the workpiece will be damaged. Rough planing is performed with large allowances (up to 5 mm) with a sherbel, with small (1 - 2 mm) planers with one knife. Scherbel is planed obliquely to the longitudinal axis of the board or bar. Knife release 2-2.5 mm. In wide boards, when crossing the line of the core, as well as in slanting, half of the board may turn out to have a different exit of fibers, so you should either turn the board over or plan it on yourself. If there are knots around which the fibers always form a curl, the knife release should be minimal and the knife itself should be sharp, otherwise deep punctures and flakes may appear, because of which it will be necessary to remove a thick layer of wood again over the entire surface. It is not recommended to plan narrow bars and edges with a sherkhebel, since it is difficult to notice the borders here, and the bar will be re-cut.
Wood drying
The wood intended for work should be dried up to 10 - 16% of humidity. Dry wood is better processed.
Wood drying is a very important technological part of the whole process of processing and manufacturing various wood products, because it depends on the drying what the tree will be, how it will look and how it will be processed.
The more competent the wood will be dried, the less there should be cracks. The wood must be dried very well, which may take a lot of time, but the finished product will be less prone to cracking and drying out.
Drying can be done in several. Atmospheric or free-air drying is simple and affordable, but a tree located under a canopy that protects it from rain and direct sunlight dries very slowly - from several months to several years. In summer, wood dries better than in spring, autumn and winter. But if the summer is rainy, it not only dries poorly, but can also become moldy and even rot. In favorable weather, the wood can be dried to an air state of 12 - 18% humidity.
The trunks of soft hardwood trees bark, that is, remove the bark from them, and lay on racks. Sometimes strips of bark are left from the ends. The same rings at equal intervals are left in the middle. From the trunks of hardwood trees, such as apple trees, maples, bark is not removed at all. To prevent the wood from cracking due to uneven drying, the ends of the trunks are painted over or whitened. Putties covering the pores of wood are made up of a mixture of drying oil and lime-fluff or wood tar and chalk. When drying small trunks, the ends are covered with a thick layer of thick oil paint.
Digestion of small pieces of hardwood in oil and varnish not only prevents the appearance of cracks, but also enhances the decorative expressiveness of the material. Billets for small carvings from apple, boxwood, pear, and oak are boiled in natural linseed oil, linseed cotton, wood (olive) oil. During cooking, oil displaces moisture from the wood into the air, filling the intercellular spaces. The wood boiled in oil or oil is then dried at room temperature. Well-dried wood acquires additional strength and moisture resistance, is perfectly ground and polished.
Digestion of wood in salt water also prevents its cracking. In addition, salt reliably protects the wood from the penetration of putrefactive microbes. In the woodworking workshops of timber industry enterprises that produce troughs and other diced dishes, finished products from linden, aspen and willow are boiled in a 25% solution of table salt.
Small workpieces made of hard and soft wood can be processed at home. Raw wood is placed in a deep pot and filled to the brim with salt water at the rate of 4 - 5 tablespoons of table salt per liter of water. The wood is cooked over low heat for two to three hours, then taken out of salt water and dried at room temperature.
Burrowing wood into shavings is a well-known and reliable method of drying wood used by turners and woodcarvers. Raw turning parts are immediately buried by the turner into the shavings obtained by turning or pre-harvested. A woodcarver buries an unfinished carved board or sculpture into shavings. They dry evenly with chips. This measure relieves the product from warping and cracking, especially with a long break in work.
Masters-drevodela always were inexhaustible to fiction, especially when it was necessary to get solid material. Noting that even in severe frosts inside the dunghill, a rather high temperature is constantly maintained, they began to bury oak ridges in it. In spring, the ridges were washed in running water and dried under a canopy in the open air.
Chamber drying is widely used in woodworking enterprises. In special drying chambers, wood is treated with superheated steam and flue gas. The wood dried in the chambers has a room-dry moisture content of 8-12% and is used for carpentry, turning and carving. From three days to a week it is required to dry softwood, such as pine, linden or spruce. From two weeks to a month, solid wood of oak, beech or elm should dry in the chamber. But with chamber drying, the appearance of cracks is not excluded. Therefore, scientists are constantly looking for more advanced and faster ways to dry wood.
In recent years, drying chambers operating at high frequency currents have been created. In such chambers, wood is placed between two brass grid-electrodes. The electrodes are supplied with current from a high-frequency generator. In an electric field, wood dries almost 20 times faster than in a steam chamber. In this way, valuable hardwood is dried.
It should be said about another original method of drying wood - drying on a cement floor, based on the ability of concrete to intensively draw moisture into itself. Wet wood is laid on a dry concrete floor. During the day, each workpiece is turned over so that alternately one or the other of its face rests on the cement floor.
Successful drying of wood depended in many respects on the size and shape of the workpiece, the presence or absence of sapwood. A craftsman who knows the structure, physico-mechanical properties of wood, with the help of an ax, saw, drill and chisel, could, at his discretion, direct the drying process in the right direction.
It is well known that it is especially difficult to dry logs, ridges and lumber having a core inside. As a rule, when dried, they crack almost to the core. The logs of many chopped buildings are usually dotted with numerous cracks. However, you can still find log cabins that do not have any noticeable cracks.
How did carpenters dry logs so well? It turns out that there are still cracks on the logs, only they are hidden from our eyes. For each log there is one large crack, but they are skillfully masked inside the log house. Before drying along each log, the carpenter made a notch with an ax. The depth of the notch was approximately one third of the distance from the surface of the log to the core. After the wood dried, one deep crack formed at the notch site, and the remaining sections of the log remained smooth. One large crack seemed to absorb dozens of smaller ones, concentrating shrinkage in the notch zone. Stacking logs in a log house, carpenters placed them with cracks down. According to the same principle, the wood-cutters of India dry boxwood, which is known to be very hard and prone to severe cracking. Boxwood block is sawn to the core, due to which shrinkage during drying is always concentrated in the cut zone.
Chipped wood is known to dry quickly and without cracks. If you split a log or ridge in half, you get a plate (half). The half dries up much faster than the ridge, not only because its mass becomes half as much, but also because air is opened to the cut annual layers. If the half is dried unevenly, then a deep crack can go from the core. Splitting a half in half, get a quarter (according to the old "quarter"). Unlike a plate, a quarter very rarely forms cracks when drying.
The properties of chipped wood were well known and skillfully used by master carvers from the Trinity-Sergius Posad of the Moscow province. They split lime ridge, depending on its thickness, into four or eight parts through the core. Perhaps this technique, which arose when it was necessary to avoid cracking wood, to some extent suggested a plastic solution to many carved toys.
Hard enough to dry hardwood with a core. When dried, it cracks severely. Deep cracks reach almost the core. For example, freshly chopped apple tree wood is susceptible to severe cracking. But even the trunk of a dried apple tree is dead wood after sawing into short ridges and ham, it is covered with numerous cracks. The apple tree has a light sapwood and a dark core. Masters especially value the core. The core wood is harder and drier, and its pores are filled with a special preservative. Sapwood, on the contrary, is loose and very saturated with moisture. When drying, the ridge cracks in the first place, and then the core. To preserve valuable core wood, sapwood is chipped with an ax and butt ends are greased with paste. After removing the sapwood, the wood dries fairly well, almost without forming cracks.
Raw wood is a lot of trouble for sculptors, who most often have to deal with ridges of rather impressive sizes. In order not to depend on the capricious inconstancy of the wood in the logs, some sculptors glue blocks of pre-dried bars that are necessary in size and configuration. Glued blocks do not give in to warping and cracking, but the violation of the natural direction of the wood layers that form the texture pattern is often detrimental to the artistic merit of the sculpture. In a sculpture made of a whole ridge, and not of a glued block, the texture, on the contrary, emphasizes the shape and makes it more expressive.
The craftsmen noticed that if the core was removed from the ridge, then the appearance of cracks can be almost completely avoided. A hole with a diameter of about 5 centimeters is drilled in the workpiece along the core. When drying, moisture is simultaneously and evenly removed not only from the upper, but also from their inner layers of the ridge. Having completed work on the sculpture. the holes are clogged with wooden corks.
Wood was dried in the woods right on the vine in spring and summer. Around the trunk of the tree intended for cutting, a wide ring of bark was removed. Moisture from the soil ceased to flow into the crown. The leaves and needles absorbed the moisture remaining in the trunk, which evaporated simultaneously with drying. A tree with a dried trunk was felled, branches were chopped off, and then they were cut down, that is, sawn into logs. Nowadays, in this way, harvesters dry the pine before rafting down the river. Drying the trees on the vine increases the buoyancy of the fused wood, and therefore reduces its loss in transit.
In the spring, when the young foliage was gaining full strength on the trees, the Bogorodsk craftsmen went to the forest to harvest linden wood for carved toys. Twigs were cut off from the dumped linden and the bark was removed from the trunk about two thirds of the length of the whole tree. The top of the tree with branches, branches and leaves (crown) was left untouched. The considerations were very simple. The foliage does not wither away at the sawn tree immediately, but continues to fight for life for a long time, as if by powerful pumps, drawing in the life-giving moisture located in the tree trunk. In two weeks, this natural pump pumped so much moisture out of the barrel that it would take several months to remove it during normal drying in the open air. After two weeks, the linden trunk was sawn into ridges up to one and a half meters long. The barked and dried linden ridges, the so-called lootos, were brought home and dried in the courtyard under a canopy, laying them on a floor towering above the ground. By autumn, linden wood was already quite suitable for all kinds of carvings. Part of the wood was put into operation, and the rest was continued to dry out in free air.
Wood drying by steaming was used by craftsmen in the distant past, since the Russian stove was invented, which became the prototype of a modern drying chamber.
If for some reason it was not possible to procure wood from spring, it was dried in Russian ovens in a short time. Steamed wood in large cast irons. Raw wood was laid in cast iron, and a little water was poured into the bottom. Then the cast iron was covered and placed in a melted furnace. To prevent the heat from leaving the furnace, it was closed with a damper. In the morning, the wood was removed from cast iron and dried at room temperature.
We used another, simpler method of drying wood. After another firebox, ash was scooped out of the Russian oven and the floor was cleaned, on which wooden blanks were placed on the priest. Tightly closing the shutter, the tree was kept in the oven until morning. By morning, the wood dried well and at the same time acquired a beautiful color. The raw white linden after steaming was dyed golden, and alder wood was light chocolate.
Drying logs in an upright position on dry land is known in the southern regions of our country. For example, Uzbek carvers dried wood under a canopy in the open air. The logs intended for drying were placed vertically, so that the bottom end rested on dry soil. Moisture in the logs gradually descended along the fibers down the capillaries and the dry earth eagerly absorbed it.
Drying of wood in the ground and river sand. From the trunk of a freshly cut tree, a rough workpiece is first cut out. Then it is buried in the ground somewhere under a canopy, so that rain can not moisten the soil. In the ground, a tree can withstand several years, but more often it takes only one year. After a certain period of time, the workpiece is torn out of the ground and dried in the room. Duration of rest is determined by the state of the wood. The color of the wood, the nature of the sound made by the workpiece with a light tapping on it with the knuckle, give the experienced craftsman accurate information about the readiness of the wood for further processing.
Small pieces of hardwood can be dried quite quickly artificially in river sand. At the same time they acquire a golden brown color.
An interesting decorative effect can be achieved by drying already finished carved products. A layer of clean river sand is poured into cast iron. Billets are placed on top, which, in turn, are covered with a new layer of dry sand. Thus, cast iron is filled to the top, making sure that the workpieces do not touch its walls. Loaded cast iron without a cover is placed on the stove. The closer he stands to the burning wood, the faster drying will go. But at the same time there is a danger that the wood will begin to smolder after some time. At the same time, if the iron is too far from the fire, the wood will dry slowly. The optimum distance from fire to cast iron is determined empirically. As the wood dries in the areas facing the fire, a golden tan gradually appears. It smoothly turns into a natural color, which has a wood blank on the opposite side. Often this is the effect they achieve by decorating finished carvings. But if you want to get a uniform color, the cast iron is occasionally rotated around its axis, substituting one side or the other for fire. If they want to get clean, dried wood (without tanning), cast iron with sand and billets is put into the furnace after being smoked overnight. Wood can be dried in the sand on a stove or on a fire, using cans, old pots, buckets instead of cast iron.
From written sources it is known that ancient Greek sculptors dried valuable wood by digging in dry rye. Drying of wood in grain was well known in Russia. A wooden blank was buried in the grain closer to spring. For several weeks, the grain absorbed all the “forest moisture” from the wood. The wood thus prepared was kept at room temperature, and then boldly put into operation, without fear of cracking. It was believed that drying the raw wood in the grain a few weeks before sowing beneficially affects the quality of the seed. The grain, filled with life-giving moisture, seemed to wake from hibernation and sprouted faster, once in the ground.
SINGLE PLANER . It is used for leveling the surface after planing with GRINDER. The knife blade is straight, but the edges of the cutting edge have a small radius of curvature, so that when planing, there is no scuffing of the wood and there are no undesirable traces. 
DOUBLE PLANER . Differs from the SINGLE PLANTER in that it has a CHIPPER (HUMPBAR). The lower edge of the chip breaker is placed parallel to the cutting edge of the knife at a distance of 0.2 - 2 mm from it. The closer the lower edge of the chip breaker to the cutting edge, the cleaner the planing. DOUBLE Slicer is used for finishing, stripping scuffs and frizzy places. With the direction of movement of the DOUBLE PLANE at an angle of 30 - 40 degrees to its longitudinal axis, you can plan the ends of the workpieces. 
GRINDER . Differs from the DOUBLE PLANE by the shortened block and the increased additive angle (angle of inclination of the knife to the sole of the PLANER). SHLIFTIKOMzagratiruyu teasing, frizzy places and ends of the workpieces. 
JOINTER Designed for precision machining of large planes, for leveling (jointing) edges. The knife at the PLANER is equipped with a chip breaker, and the block exceeds the length of the PLANE 2 - 3 times. Most PLATTERS have a handle reinforced behind the knife, which greatly facilitates the work. A low insert (shock button or cork) is glued to the front of the block, which serves to knock the knife out of the notch. The shortened PLANE is called a SEMI-FOUGANOK. 
TSINUBEL . This is a STRUCTURE with a single knife, the cutting edge of which from the side opposite the chamfer is covered with a fine notch. The notch is performed on a planer before hardening. The notch, going to the cutting edge, creates teeth on it. When planing, they remove (each - his) narrow (0.8 - 1 mm.) Chips. The surface becomes corrugated, which is extremely important for veneering or when gluing very hard wood. At the same time, when planing the frizzy surface of hard rocks (mahogany and ebony) with a ZENUBEL, you can replace a PLANER. But after curing, the surface is necessarily cleaned with CYCLES. Due to the complexity of the manufacture of the TSINUBEL knife, some craftsmen replace it with a piece of a SAW BLADE from a SAW file for metal - they grind it on one side and clamp it between the knife and the DOUBLE PLANTER. 
Particular attention should be paid to the CHIPS with a metal casing. For such TOOLS, not only the chipbreaker positions with respect to the knife are regulated, but also the span width. Particularly convenient for working with hardwoods HALF-JOGS
. 
Small metal is respected PLANER - TURNER , whose knife is chamfered forward. For this reason, it has a large rake angle and is used for fine planing. 
Humpback . This type of STRUCTURE is designed for processing curly edges with external and internal diameters. Accordingly, it has two types of soles, designed for its type of work. 
SHPUNTUBEL . Or PAZNIK - used to select longitudinal grooves (dowels) on the face and the edges of the workpieces. It consists of two pads fastened together by screws. One block is a guide, the other serves to secure removable iron knives. Using the TAPPING UNIT, select 
CYCLE . This TOOL also applies to planing. The CYCLE is a thin (0.7 - 1 mm.) Steel plate 25 - 30 mm wide made of spring steel tape. Bringing the CYCLES into working condition is usually called HANDLING. The working edge is sharpened at a right angle, with the formation of two sharp rectangular ribs. One or both ribs heap (induce), passing along them with an aiming edge, which can be used as an old file. A very thin burr is formed on the edge - the working blade itself. With a slight tilt of the CYCL, the burr will remove very thin chips. The movements made by the CYCLE must coincide with the direction of the layers of wood. Sometimes, for example, when cycling decks, CYCLES are allowed to move at an angle of up to 45 degrees to the direction of the layer. It should be remembered that, as a rule, CYCLES do not have a special mandrel for a knife. 
Nowadays, along with the usual, appeared ELECTRIC PLANER (ELECTRIC PLANER), which is equipped with a system for adjusting the thickness of the chip and its discharge. And, importantly, with special protection from knives - both the fingers of the working and the treated surface. It is important to note that both types of PLANKS are used for planing wood. Lecture No. 4 Chiselling and cutting Chiselling is carried out in the event that it is extremely important to make spike joints of the parts, through and through holes, rectangular. Tools for chiselling and cutting. Manual mortising tools include chisels and chisels.The bits have a working part with a length of 130, 150 or 160 mm, a width of 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18 and 20 mm, a thickness of 8, 9 and 11 mm. Chisels are flat and semicircular. Flat chisels are divided into thick and thin. Thin flat chisels are made with a length of 110 and 120 mm, a width of 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. Flat thick Chisels are made in lengths of 105, 110 and 120 mm. Chisels 4, 6, 8 mm wide have a thickness of 3 mm, and chisels 10, 12, 18, 20, 25, 30, 40 mm wide have a thickness of 4 mm. Semicircular chisels used for processing convex and concave surfaces (chisels with external sharpening), hollowing and stripping of rounded nests and grooves (chisels with internal sharpening). The length of the working part of these chisels 105, 110 and 120 mm. Chisels 6, 8 and 10 mm wide have a thickness of 2.0-2.5 mm, and chisels 12, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm wide have a thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm. You can see below a fragment of the film about how to make chisels and chisels. The full version of the film can be downloaded here and here. Preparation of the mortising tool for work. It includes the following operations: sharpening and fine-tuning of the cutting edge; checking the integrity of the handle, the presence on the handle of the ring and cap. The angle of sharpening of the chisels is 18-25 °, and the bits are 30-40 °. Sharpening and finishing of the mortising tool is carried out similarly to the knives of planing tools. Performing operations of chiselling and cutting wood. Before performing this process step, mark the workpiece according to the drawing. In the manufacture of a through hole, marking is made on both sides of the workpiece. Marking risks should be visible after chiselling and even after the final cleaning of the nest with a chisel. For greater reliability of fastening and better clamping of the workpiece use clamp, which the workpiece is attached to the lid of the workbench (Fig. to the right, a) The workpiece must be strengthened firmly and without deflection. To prevent crushing of the wood, the supporting surfaces of the clamp put a lining under them. Workpieces of considerable length should be secured with several clamps. 
When hollowing through holes, a lining (board) is placed under the workpiece so as not to damage the bench cover. Part of the workpiece with the hole marked on it should be on the bench cover. When hollowing, you need to face the workbench, opposite the workpiece, keep the body straight, slightly tilting your head forward. The foot of the left foot is placed perpendicular to the lid of the workbench. Take a half-step back with the right foot and place the foot at an angle of 70-80 ° to the left (Fig. To the right, b) The bit is taken in the left hand, the mallet - in the right. The width of the bit must match the width of the hole. The bit is held by the handle at a distance of 15-20 mm from its upper end, and the mallet at a distance of 20-30 mm from the lower end. The sequence of chiselling through and through holes are different. Through holes are marked and hollowed on one side. Hollowing through holes can be carried out either on only one side or on two: first, on one side of the workpiece (half), and then, turning it 180 °, on the other. This method of chiselling (counter) is used in the processing of thick workpieces. The resulting holes are cleaned with chisels. Chamfers cut chamfers, planing and stripping workpieces (Fig. Below). When performing these works, the chisel is taken with the left hand for the working part, and with the right hand for the handle. The right hand tells the tool the direction of movement, and the left hand controls the direction and thickness of the chips. 
Chisel wood cutting: a - planing; b - cutting the chamfer at the end; c - chamfering along the fibers; g - clearing the spike. The quality control of the chiselling is carried out by various instrumentation. The depth of the through holes is measured with a caliper. The length and width of the holes are checked with scale rulers and vernier calipers, but the use of templates gives the greatest accuracy of control and time saving. When chiselling and cutting, the following rules should be followed to avoid personal injury. You can work only with a tool, the cutting part of which is securely fixed in the handle and correctly sharpened. The movement of the chisels should be carried out in the direction away from you. IT IS FORBIDDEN to push the processed material into any part of the body. Only pass the cutting tool forward with the handle. DO NOT place the tool on the edge of the table to avoid injuring the legs with a falling tool. Instruction card. Chiselling and stripping of rectangular holes. | Name and sequence of operations | Recommendations for operations and self-monitoring | Sketch |
| Chiselling through holes: | ||
| 1. Install a bit across the fibers on the right side of the marked workpiece | The chamfer of the bit should be facing inward of the marked hole, and the bit should be installed, retreating 1-2 mm from the marked hole; the angle between the workpiece and the front face of the bit should be 90º |  |
| 2. Lightly hit the mallet on the end of the handle to deepen the chisel into the wood. Pull out the chisel blade from the resulting recess. | After hitting with a mallet, the chisel blade will cut the wood fibers and deepen by 3-5 mm (at a deeper depth, the quality of the hole being machined worsens), with a slight sway across the fibers, remove the chisel from the wood |  |
| 3. Install the bit by placing the blade perpendicular to the wood fibers on the left side of the marked hole; cut the fibers and take out the chisel | The chamfer of the bit should be facing inside the marked hole, retreating 1-2 mm from the marking line; lightly hitting the chisel with a mallet͵ its blade is introduced into the wood by 3-5 mm |  |
| 4. Cut wood along the fibers | The chamfer facet should face the marked hole; right-clicking on the handle of the chisel, its blade is inserted into the wood by 3-5 mm, removing the chisel from the wood, it is installed in a new place and again cut the wood along the marking line, etc. |  |
| 5. Set the chamfer of the chisel perpendicular to the wood fibers at a distance of 15-20 mm from the first notch (right, see sketch), hitting the handle with a mallet, and then, swinging the chisel, remove the wood and, thus, continue chiselling to the middle of the marked hole | The chamfer must be set to the middle of the marked hole. The thickness of the cut chips should be 2-3 mm. The cut piece of wood is removed using the chisel as a lever |  |
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| 6. Set the chamfer of the bit perpendicular to the wood fibers at a distance of 15-20 mm from the second notch (left). Cut fibers and remove chips. Chisel the remaining part of the wood used as a support for the bit at the 5th and 6th stages of processing. To get a nest of a certain depth, it is extremely important to perform the same operations as when removing the first chip | The chamfer of the bit should be installed to the middle (uncut) part of the marked hole; the thickness of the cut chips is not more than 2-3 mm. The trimmed part of the wood is removed using a chisel as a lever. Set the chisel to the bottom of the nest and, easily hitting the handle with a mallet, cut off the middle and remove the chips. Chip thickness should be increased to 5-10 mm Remember! Cutting thicker shavings speeds up the chiselling operation, but degrades the surface quality of the hole walls |  |
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| Stripping a nest of a chisel: | ||
| 1. To take a chisel with the right hand by the handle, and the left by the working part | The right hand tells the tool a straight line movement, and the left hand controls the direction and thickness of the chip |  |
| 2. Strip the walls of the socket | When cutting with a chisel facing the cutting surface with the blade plane, the rear angle between the blade plane and the cutting surface should be 0-3º; When communicating the working movement with a chisel, strip the nest Remember! Cutting is much easier, and the surface is cleaner if the chisel is moved at a slight angle to the direction of the fibers |  |
| 3. Strip the bottom of the socket | Install the chamfer facet to the surface of the treatment; the back angle between the chamfer and the surface should be 3-5º; clean the surface. The thickness of the cut chips during roughing 2-3 mm, with a final cleaning of 0.5-1 mm; the hollowed and stripped nest should not be narrowed downwards, since the end of the spike, falling into the narrowed part, will be compressed and squeezed back |
In order for the product to take the necessary shape, have smooth, smooth surfaces, it must be trimmed.
Planes are cut with special planing tools - plows. Among the plows, the most common are sherbel, planer and jointer (Fig. 99).
Fig. 99. Types of plows: a - sherbel; b - a plane; in - jointer
Plows consist of a wooden or metal block, knife, wedge and handle (Fig. 100).
Fig. 100. Planer device: 1 - block; 2 - knife; 3 - wedge; 4 - pen
The workpiece is mounted on a workbench, clamping upward between the stop and the wedge of the workpiece. With their right hand they take a plane by the handle from the back of the block, and with the left - by the block or handle from the front (Fig. 101).
Fig. 101. Planing with a planer
Sherhebel serves for the primary, more rough planing of surfaces, and a planer - for the final, fine (the word "sherbel" is of German origin and means "plow for rough cutting").
The cutting edge at the sherbel (Fig. 102) is arched, convex, and at the plane and jointer - straight.
Fig. 102. Knives: а - sheherbel; b - planer and jointer; c - a planer and jointer with a chip breaker (1 - knife; 2 - chip breaker; 3 - bolt; 4 - cutting edge of a knife)
A jointer is much longer than a planer. Stitching with a jointer, they get smooth, flat surfaces on long workpieces.
The planer is placed on the work surface and pushed forward. At the beginning of planing, they press on the front of the block, and at the end - on the back. With the reverse movement of the planer, it is raised above the surface to be treated. Thus, the surface being machined is gradually planed until it becomes even and smooth and the workpiece reaches the desired thickness.
If the fibers on the work surface are pulled up, then the workpiece should be planed in the opposite direction.
Safety Rules
- Securely fasten the workpiece when planing.
- Only work with a well-sharpened knife.
- You can not check the sharpness of the blade with your hands.
- Only use a wooden wedge to clean planing tools from chips.
- Tools for planing can be placed on a workbench only on its side.
Practical work No. 29
Slicing wooden blanks with sherbel and planer
Work order
- Familiarize yourself with the device of the sherkhebel, planer and jointer.
- Fasten the workpiece to the workbench.
- Sew the edges and edges of the workpiece, evaluate the quality of planed surfaces.
New concepts
Slicing of wood, plows (sherbel, planer, jointer), cutting edge.
test questions
- What is the purpose of the plows? How do they differ?
- What determines the thickness of cut chips during planing?
- Explain how the chip breaker works.
- What happens if the chips do not break?
LESSON PLAN
Grade 5 " »»
Made by:
Kuzmin Sergey Ilyich,
Teacher
MBOU secondary school No. 6 of Ozyory
Explanatory note.
The synopsis presented by me complies with the requirements of the Federal Educational Standard. The basis is an active approach to learning.
The material consists of a lesson summary.This lesson is part of a technology training course. « Technologies for manual processing of wood and wood materials " .
Forms of work of students: frontal and individual.
Lesson Objectives:
Educational:
Educational:
Developing: to develop students' creative activity and self-esteem skills.
To form UUD:
Personal UUD:
Regulatory ECM:
Communicative UUD: skillbuildto express their problems.
Cognitive UUD: realizeinformation search, analysis
Students own
regulatory ECM:
formulate questions on the topic based on supporting (interrogative) words; transform a practical task into an educational-cognitive one together with a teacher;
cognitive UUD:
collect and allocate information relevant to solving the problem, under the guidance of a teacher;
communicative UUD:
express your point of view at the initiative of the teacher;
Personal UUD:
carry out the reflection of their attitude to the content of the topic and the evaluation of labor results.
Expected Results:
Learn to reproduce acquired knowledge, skills in a specific activity. Planing parts in compliance with safe working practices. Sustainable motivation to learn and consolidate the new. To be able to build reasoning in the form of a connection of simple judgments about an object, its structure, properties and relationships.
In order to prepare students for the perception of new material, enhance their mental activity as the motivational beginning of the lesson and update the supporting knowledge, a purposeful repetition of previously passed material in the form of frontal work is organized in order to prepare students for the perception of new knowledge. A number of questions and educational tasks, students were led to formulate the purpose of the lesson. The emphasis of the lesson was placed on the independent individual work of children. Where at the end of the lesson each child should come to the result, make wedges for the workbench.
For self-assessment of students at the stage of reflection, I used a number of questions. Children had to evaluate their work and the work of classmates. What mistakes or violations were made. What happened and what not, explain why.
At the end of the lesson, homework is given that will help expand knowledge on this topic. Thus, the lesson is built on an active basis with the use of modeling techniques for solving problems in real life, is practical, and ensures the development of cognitive activity and the solution of educational tasks.
The content of the educational material and the types of work used in the lesson were aimed at maintaining the cognitive activity of students throughout the lesson. From an educational point of view, the lesson contributed to the formation of children's interest in the subject.
LESSON PLAN-CONSPECT Grade 5
Theme of the lesson: " Planing wood blanks»
1. Purpose of the lesson:
Educational: summarize and systematize the material studied on this topic.
Educational: to promote the education of students, accuracy, responsibility, concern for the results of their work, the practical significance of the manufactured product.
Developing: to develop students' creative activity and self-esteem skills.
To form UUD:
Personal UUD: assessment of digestible content, providing a personal choice, an active position.
Regulatory ECM: statement of the educational task, comparison, the ability to control one’s and others ’activities, correction of the initiative, management activity, mutual control and self-control.
Communicative UUD: skillbuild dialogue and monologue (speech activity), cooperation, with sufficient completeness and accuracyto express their problems.
Cognitive UUD: realizeinformation search, analysislesson information received during the lessonin order to highlight the main, to formulate problems and cognitive goals.
2. Tasks:
1. To reveal the concepts of “planing”, “planer”, “sherbel”, “working pose”.
2. To reveal the technology of the planing process of wood blanks.
3. Be able to prepare the tool for work, carry out commissioning.
4. Carry out visual quality control of the product.
5. Compliance with the rules of safe work.
6. Draw conclusions, summarize.
3. Expected Results:
Learn to reproduce acquired knowledge, skills in a specific activity. Planing parts in compliance with safe working practices. Sustainable motivation to learn and consolidate the new. To be able to build reasoning in the form of a connection of simple judgments about an object, its structure, properties and relationships
4.Type of lesson: Combined lesson.
5.Technology: Health saving, problem-based learning, a differentiated approach to learning.
6. Equipment: joiner's workbench, pencil, ruler, plane, sherbel.
7. Object of work: wedges for a workbench.
Route of the technology lesson in grade 5 on the topic "Planing of wood blanks"
Main contentMethods
Teacher activities
Student Activities
Planned educational outcomes
subject
UUD:
Regulatory Cognitive; Communicative
personal
Organizational moment motivation for learning activities
Hello guys! Check if you are all ready for the lesson? Today we will study another way of wood processing and active work in the lesson will help you learn new material and make the product. The result of the work done will depend on the work of each of you. Therefore, you must work in an atmosphere of cooperation, mutual assistance and goodness.
Verbal
Provides an open, friendly environment for working in class. Psychologically prepares students for communication.
Welcomes students, checks readiness for the lesson, checks those present.
Check the availability of training tools and materials for working in the lesson.
Teachers welcome.
Regulatory:
Self-monitoring of educational activities
Communicative:
Planning a learning collaboration with a teacher and peers
Students are ready for self-development and self-education,
they are able to mobilize their personal qualities and student's ability to learn in a situation of "beginning of activity".
Motivation for learning activities
We have already met some carpentry operations. Recycle them. Today we will get acquainted with one more.
Problematic issue:
Demonstrate two identical in size boards. One is planed, the other has a rough sawn surface. Question. Let's compare the two blanks?
How is it processed?
Who guessed what was at stake? What operation will we get to know today?
Verbal
(conversation), graphic,
practical
Motivates students to determine the topic and to set the cognitive goal of the lesson.
Invites students to tell what they already know about wood processing.
Turns to the class with questions.
Listen to the teacher; Determine the topic of the lesson;
Participate in the formulation of the cognitive purpose of the lesson.
Pupils recall what they already know about the topic, and speak out alternately.
Regulatory:
determine the goals and objectives of the lesson);
Communicative :
participate in the formation of an atmosphere of research and co-creation
Cognitive: work with a table
Educational and cognitive activity .
To get a flat surface, the details are planed. When planing, a thin layer of wood - chips, is removed from the surface of the workpiece. For manual processing of wood blanks with planing, we will use a planer and a shekherbel. Let's compare the two tools. What are the differences. Cherkhebel serves for preliminary (rough) planing of workpieces. The plane is intended for final (fair) planing of workpieces.
I explain the planer device. Features of fastening a knife. I demonstrate the adjustment of planers with a knife fastening with a wedge and a screw.
Verbal
(conversation), graphic,
practical
It offers students problematic questions and assignments in order to clarify the differences between the plows and understand their purpose.
Directs the students' activities related to the formulation of the problem, the search for ways to solve it.
Make a conclusion about the use of plows.
Comparison of tools is carried out, signs of their similarity and differences are revealed, they are aware of the difficulty, they are looking for a way to overcome it.
Perform the task in the workbook.
They know the difference between a planer and a sherbel, in which cases they should be used. Know the device of the plows.
Cognitive:
Formulation of the problem, search for solutions;
Information retrieval;
Analysis with the identification of essential and non-essential features, comparison, the establishment of causal relationships, generalization;
Constructing a speech utterance.
Regulatory:
Goal setting;
Planning;
The control;
Evaluation and self-esteem.
Communicative:
Presentation of one’s own thoughts and ideas, dialogue, ability to lead a discussion.
Show cognitive interest. Understand: your success in studying the topic.
Respect for another person, his opinion.
Independent work. Briefing.
Before planing, the workpiece is installed on a workbench. How to do it? The plane is placed on the workpiece with the sole and begin planing. In order to make the planed surface smooth and even. It is necessary to fix the workpiece so that the direction of the wood fibers coincides with the direction of movement of the planer during planing. At the beginning of planing, they press harder with the left hand on the front of the planer, and at the end of the movement - with the right hand on the back. If the tap hole is clogged with chips, then it must be pulled up from the tap hole or cleaned with a sliver. The quality of the planed surface is checked with a ruler, applying it in different positions.
Clear
practical
Distributes blanks. Offers to fix it on a workbench. Supervises. Demonstrates the grip of the tool, working position, planing process. Control of planed surfaces. Fitting the blade to the workbench.
Set workpieces on workbenches. Prepare the tool for work. They plan, control planed surfaces, and adjust them in the holes of the workbench.
Individual activity.
Self-creation of ways to solve problems of a creative nature based on the method of reflective activity
Responsible attitude to the fulfillment of educational tasks.
Fastening, reflection, summing up the lesson
Let us return to the goals set at the beginning of the lesson. Did you manage to reach them?
Verbal
It initiates the reflection of students about their emotional state, their activities, and interaction with the teacher's classmates. Ensures students learn the principles of self-regulation and cooperation. It could be a test.
What aroused interest?
What seemed difficult? What mistakes were made?
They determine the level of perception of information in the lesson, the state of comfort during collective, frontal and individual work.
Regulatory:
Participation in the debriefing of the lesson; development of criteria for evaluating work.
Self-esteem.
Cognitive:
Monitoring and evaluation of their activities
To establish a connection between the purpose of the activity and its result;
evaluate your own work
Self-assessment based on success criteria; An adequate understanding of the reasons for success / failure in educational activities;
Compliance with moral standards and ethical requirements
Homework
Know the material of paragraph 13 of the textbook;
Creative d / z (which still exists for wood planing).
Evaluate their capabilities when choosing d / z.
Write d / z in the diary.
List of references
1. Sample programs of educational institutions “Technology. Technical work ”for grades 5–9; recommended by the Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation. Project. - 2nd ed. - M.: Education, 2011.
2. Technology: Technical work. 5kl .: textbook / ed. V.M. Kazakevich, G.A. Moleva.-2nd ed., Sterotype. - M.: Bustard, 2014.-192 p.: Ill.
3. Tishenko A. T., Simonenko V. D. Textbook “Technology. Industrial Technologies ”- Grade 5. M .: "Ventana-Graf", 2012
Used materials and Internet resources